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[Eat It]: Kimchi & Pulled Pork Fries

Sloppy junk food that's best consumed just before or directly after the onset of a raging hangover. A look inside newly-opened Dixe Grill.
Last updated: 2015-11-09
Eat It is a regular feature that cuts to the core of a given restaurant's menu, highlighting a specialty, favorite, or otherwise good thing to eat.

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There are food combinations out there that seem meant to be, yet for centuries their constituent elements developed independently of one another, sometimes oceans apart. For instance, the world had to wait until 1492 for something as simple and perfect as tomatoes and olive oil. More recently, though, there is this.

I'm not sure if this dish arose out of something as important and irrevocably world changing as the Columbian Exchange. But I don't care. I'm just glad it exists. What you see here is a pile of French fries buried under a mound of barbecued pulled-pork topped with kimchi and ribbons of mayonnaise. It harmoniously joins together flavors from three nations: barbecue from the American South, French fries the way the eat them in the Netherlands — I've seen 'em do it, man, they fuckin' drown 'em in that shit — and Korean fermented cabbage. It's a gloriously sloppy tribute to our capacity to bridge cultural gaps and create something that tastes good. It's why you go to . Kimchi and pulled-pork fries sets the tone for of the rest of Dixie's small menu. It's an selection of haphazard flavor combinations drawing inspiration from Asia and North America.

I suppose its what you'd expect from a place owned by a Canadian national of Vietnamese descent who opens a restaurant named after an affectionate term for the American South. You see the theme in Dixie's Asian "tacos", too. They come stuffed with leaves of romaine, coriander, shredded carrots, radicchio, pickled jalapeno and meats like pulled pork, Cajun shrimp or tofu. However, I can't get behind these like can the kimchi fries. The shell, a strangely sweet shou zhua bing-style flat bread, just throws the flavor profile off-kilter.

Most of the food here seems specifically designed to either prevent or palliate a hangover. It's packed with those three ingredients scientifically proven to tickle the pleasure centers of the brain: fat, salt and sugar. Some of it hits the nail on the head. Here's another example.

Sweet potato fries with a deep caramelized crisp. I recommend ordering these as a side dish to the kimchi fries. Yes, starch with a side of starch. What's wrong with that? The sandwiches are okay, too. They do a chicken "po' boy", which really just tastes more like a chicken stir-fry on a hoagie roll. There is also Korean-style beef kalbi with, once again, kimchi and julienned carrots. They're served inexplicably with a few tortilla chips and corn.

Sometimes that beef kalbi is used for Philly Cheesesteak as a special.

Yes, it looks like shit, but after a night of excessive bourbon consumption, this could save your life. Also, Philadelphians will be happy to know that Dixie even makes their cheese steaks with Cheez-wiz or a similar processed cheese food product. Of course, Geno's or Pat's, this sandwich isn't. But it's a nice gesture, no? Prices are about what you'd expect. The kimchi fries are 28rmb and are a meal in themselves. "Tacos" are around 25rmb. Sandwiches are in the upper 30s to mid 40rmb. For a listing, click .

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