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[Lookback]: The Year in New Restaurants

Some of the new openings! Most of the closings! Get your fix here!
Last updated: 2019-12-20

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Was every new F&B venture that opened in 2019 a western restaurant, coffee shop or dessert shop? No. But, most were. , which analyzed , , and , two-thirds of the tenants fit into those three categories. Yeesh! Shanghai, are we so predictable? Do we want anything besides a post-Starbucks coffee and a slice of wanghong cake?

Yes, yes, we do. And here’s the list to prove it. Ïã¸ÛÁùºÏ²Ê×ÊÁÏÍø added more than 900 bars, restaurants and clubs to its database in 2019. Granted not all of them were new this year, but at least half were, which means that this city is expanding way faster than it’s closing. (Scroll down for the full list of this year’s closures.) And this list doesn’t really include the far more dynamic Chinese restaurant industry. It’s just so big. Sorry!

I went through the list of openings and SmSh’s 2019 and picked out some of the more notable things to talk about. Let’s get to it! The lookback!

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The Meat!

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The crusty porterhouse at Wolfgang's that drove me over the top

Meat came in many forms this year. In the steakhouse world, we got to know , which , and , which Paul Pairet apparently favors. Chef Jason Oakley also says good things about the Phipps' Philly cheesesteak, which is on . I’ve had it. Good stuff. They both technically opened in the end of 2018 but they didn’t pick up any street buzz until this year. Wolfgang’s, by the way, is 1,000 square meters and not having any problem filling its seats, where a porterhouse for two is about 1,600rmb. Add them to the list of .

Two newcomers tried their hand at barbecue this year. was ; did a bit better. The latter in which to wood-smoke their beef brisket, pork ribs and pork butt. When we went, they got some things right and some things wrong but I’ve heard they have at least re-painted the Texas flag the right way around. Hopefully the progress continues.

Garlic Barbecue's Texas-style smokers

expanded into Lujiazui with . The main man behind gambled on as his next hit. , which opened in the former CHI-Q space in Three on the Bund, does unlimited meats for less than 300rmb per person. No windows to the Bund but who needs that when bottles of soju are so cheap?

The spread at JUJU

In the Other Meat category, Italian restaurant became the first Western restaurant here (and plenty more), and we sent one of our writers to scope out a couple popular and .

Dinner...ssssssssssss

The Fancy Stuff

Flowers and beef at Botanik

I thoroughly enjoyed the excitement and passion behind Elijah Holland’s . And then . I as much. after chef Michael Wilson left early in the year. But, hey, the new chef proved me wrong and kept the restaurant’s star in the 2019 Michelin awards. Must’ve been tough for him with all doubts (which I contributed to), so a genuine congrats to Pierrick Maire for staying the course. You won!

The Michelin Guide

888rmb worth of egg at Da Vittorio

I and I won’t. See what happened in 2019 .

The Casual Fancy Stuff

Heritage by Madison's dining room and open kitchen

proved immediately popular for . Jonas Noel closed his but .

Coastal lamb and carrots at the new Oxalis

Austin Hu discovered vegetables and to prove it. Paul Pairet’s star power drew so many to that they ran out of food in the first few days. They have since bought more and are constantly packed.

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The slick room at Polux

And coming in just before the clock, is a new, moody bar/gastrolounge where they put a lot of onion ash on the food. Food! It’s the new black.

Japanese

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Thick cuts of bluefin tuna at Haiyu Sushi

We didn’t stay very plugged into the Japanese circuit this year but still noticed that , the with, gasp!, Japanese beef, closed (Grill in Peace). Fortunately, opened serving . And then . Coming back in 2020 with a new name and a new location on Jianguo Lu.

Also, added Japanese in the form of on the second floor.

Not new but have you been to ? (and the opening chef of Shinpaku) told us about this no-frills place for excellent fish and we’ve been back perhaps a dozen times since.

The Bund

One of the terraces (plural) of Ce La Vi

The Bund continued to grind along. New to it this year were , a club-lounge-restaurant at the House of Roosevelt building; , a Peruvian-Japanese (nikkei) entry on Yan’an Lu; and this called .

Looks so niiiiiiice. The Way of the Dragon

The Food of the People

An early Homeslice portrait. Spicy sausage, I believe

Finally, onto what the rest of us eat! Pizza! opened on Nanchang Lu in December, behind IAPM, though closed in Sun Moon Plaza. opened their third store, , and are planning more more more. And under the radar, brought a fancy oven into the basement of 1788 Plaza for their 90-second Neapolitan pies. Not bad.

Toto himself, the man who quit the corporate world to make panini

In the sandwich universe: brought their cheese-melter to ; began serving huge panini with a side of ; subbed out the lobster in a lobster roll (good idea!); did ; ; and still, there is no agreed-upon “winner” in the sandwich category this year. Investors! Fix this!

Shake Shack numero dos, in Jing'an

In the burgerverse, , which is the best burger in Shanghai, unless is the best burger in Shanghai, expanded to six locations while Shake Shack and (but still refuse delivery) and put up hoarding for a 2020 shop in the , their fourth in the magic city. Fatburger left Shanghai and . Burgers go best with fries and tried to bring them to us a la carte, made-to-order and Dutch-style. We found them…

Royal Patat Shanghai

Dutch fries

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The 12-hour brisket with pineapple and salsa verde taco at The Cannery

Also we made the .

Noodles and Dumplings

Xibu Niuda showing off all the thicknesses of their hand-pulled noodles

Geeez, we wrote a lot about noodles and dumplings this year.

We found a relatively that promised greater authenticity, but mostly .

We went back, , to of , the 360rmb crab noodle place. He was nice! He was down to earth! He has a WeChat sticker set of his illustrated avatar in various poses, complete with ponytail and wispy goatee! And his restaurants now have Jo Malone fragrance and Dyson hair dryers in the bathroom.

Xu Jing, the owner of both the Cejerdary chain and one amazing man bun

We checked out and found them… not that stinky. It’s not even the snails that give it the funk anyway; it’s the fermented bamboo shoots. Yummmmmm.

They don't look so stinky, right?

Meanwhile, fancy noodle house opened in IAPM, doing wheat noodles in expensive soups, while picked Lippo Plaza to sell Vietnamese rice noodles with excellent grilled pork. .

Bun

Light and airy at Bun Cha Cha

In dumplings: we suffered no fools as we ; put up ; and found that .

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An archetypal DTF soup dumpling

Shanghai Lifers

The Cat fights its way into Xintiandi

gobbled up the space in Xintiandi to become one of the few places in that tourist lane to sell reasonably priced beer. Eduardo Vargas just keeps keeping on, opening , near . It’s good, that one. Nice ceviche and big balloon glasses for the happy hour drinks.

Nicolas Le Bec's tuna tataki with yuzu

Nicolas Le Bec seemed to be having a moment this year, with everyone I know raving about his and its consistency. He branched out, though not too far, to open , . That’s on Xinhua Lu, giving him three restaurants in two blocks. Why? “So I don’t have to walk too far to visit them”, he told me. Smart guy.

Inside Italo

The Sexy Corporation, Ltd was caught in the tussle over Zhang Yuan and had to move out. has a terrace.

The Tomatito terrace

tried her hand at Thai with on Yongkang Lu. And the peoples took over a second floor right about their Fumin Lu original to open .

The Big Chains

The 1.3kg showpiece lobster at Red Lobster, a lucky 888rmb

racked up 1,250 comments on Dianping since opening in, well, actually, um, December 2018. But to find delicious oversized sea bugs and cheap, cheap drinks. cleaved off yet another sub-brand, . Twelve months ago, it didn’t exist. Today there are three and, no doubt, many more on the way. Starbucks, our new lord, opened a new . Two facts: Shanghai has the highest number of Starbucks in the world of any city (750+); and our is no longer the largest in the world, since Chicago stole our crown in November. Sad face.

Chili's Shanghai

Hail the margarita

In some consolation, in a primo location on the Pudong riverbank. We bowed to its mighty American cheer. Tim Horton’s, dba in China, went from zero to almost 30 stores this year, which is, just, like, wow. Brands are always promising to enter China and expand like that and they almost always fail. Good job, Timbits.

The Sweets

Corner Cone, not Luneurs

Lots happened but the ones you need to concern yourself with were , which opened new branches and , serving their addictive salted caramel ice cream; and , a Malaysian cendol place that we went to bat for, Separately, that popped in 2019, so if you’re like the type of person who likes cold food with cold weather, that’s gonna be useful.

The Ones Who Didn’t Make It

Shanghai is, like any major city, a difficult place to be in the F&B industry. There are no tenants’ rights groups here, no long leases, no guarantees that your street front shop is not going to be taken back in the middle of your lease, and no formula for what us, the customers, are going to like. We like change! We want the new.

And, like in every city, some of you business people land on the right answer, and many more of you don’t. For whatever reason, plus maybe the simple fact that you’re not making enough money, you can’t keep on. It’s sad. We’re sorry. We are pro-business. We want you to do well and survive and fulfill all your dreams.

But reality. Reality is hard. That’s the takeaway from this next list, which we have been tallying up over the course of the year, so we can all reminisce about the places that said goodbye over these past 12 months.

Consider it a reminder to go out more. To patronize the places you like and vote with your money who is going to be around at the end of 2020. With that said, rest in peace. Better luck next year!

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