Ïã¸ÛÁùºÏ²Ê×ÊÁÏÍø

Area: Just past where Yanping Lu puts a kink in Wuding Lu. That's roughly a block north of the laowai ghetto better known as . On that street, you'll find a number of eateries and drinkeries, like , and . Spurring off onto Wuding Lu, you'll find , and .

What it is: OYakitori is the latest from the folks behind Sushi'O. The restaurant first made a splash with its affordable and accessible Japanese cuisine on Yanqing Lu. Then, the typical Shanghai story: the landlord saw a tenant making money, pushed said tenant out and opened a carbon copy with a similar name in the same place shortly thereafter. It's just as well. Sushi'O regrouped on Yongkang just as the raucous F&B haven's wave started swelling. Not long after, they opened a second branch on another street that sees a lot of laowai action, Yanping Lu. This new concept is the next logical step, Japanese barbecue on a stick.

The menu is smaller than what you'll find in your typical yakitori joint, but most of the mandatory dishes are there, like crispy chicken skin, beef tongue, grilled leeks and whole smelts. You'll also find some less conventional items, like "grilled cheese & oyster," pineapple and short ribs. Most come off the grill seasoned with some simple salt and pepper or splashed with some balsamic vinegar. It never gets as pure and exquisite as what you'll find at Toriyasu or as inspired and whimsical as what you'll get Kota's. But it's also a fraction of the cost. That's brand consistency for you.

They're getting into the craft cocktail game soon, too. The space upstairs will soon be home to OCocktail. But rather than the stiff, stodgy purism of the Japanese school of bartending, you can expect something a little more original and creative. They've brought on Yao Lu, whose name you'll recognize from his work at The Public and the now-defunct Alchemist, as a consultant. He's built a list of 16 original cocktails. It's all handmade to the hilt—infusions, fresh juices and purees, etc. At the time of writing, it is slated for a soft opening this Friday (November 22).

Atmosphere: Once again, brand consistency. OYakitori has basically the same look and feel of both Sushi'O branches. Naked designer light bulbs cast their light upon a post-industrial decor. Post-industrial. Either that's a really popular look these days or I'm running out of ways to describe concrete floors, steel panels, exposed ductwork and a gray scale color scheme broken up by plain wood tabletops. Expect more of the same upstairs when the cocktail lounge opens up later this week.

Damage: You can pay as little as 6rmb for a grilled garlic skewer and 68rmb for a filet of black cod. The rest of the menu ranges between the low 20s and high 40s. Drinks fall within the standard price range—25rmb for an Asahi draft 45rmb for a bottle of La Chouffe. Sakes start at 30rmb for a 150ml bottle of Gekkeikan up to 680 for a 1.8L of Hakkaisan. A small selection of shochus is also available. You'll pay 45 or 58 for a glass, 245 or 380 for a bottle.

Who's going: Hungry refugees from Sanhe Huayuan, budget-conscious laowais ramping up for an evening of boozing.